
This is by far one of our favorite stops along the coast. Anchored at the
quaint cove at Soguk Su (Cold Water Bay), you can swim in wonderful
spring-chilled waters as you view the beautiful mountain landscape.
Just up the ridge to north is the village of Kayakoy, a "Greek Ghost Town" that
was abandoned in the early 1920's during the Greek-Turkish exchange after World
War I. Villagers from Kayakoy were exchanged with Turks from Salonika and some
descendants of these Turks still live here today. Today the village is owned by
the Turkish Ministry of Culture.
If you have not read the book "Birds Without Wings" you must before you visit
Kayakoy. The village will come alive with the characters that are elegantly
presented by Louis De Bernieres: Kara Tavuk, Mehmetcik and Phelothaei,Rustem Bey
and Layla. You will be transformed into the years when Turks and Greeks lived
happily together in this village, and you'll experience the hardships they
suffered during the war. De Bernier's inclusion of historical facts about daily
life, Ataturk, The Allied forces and the tactics of war makes the novel even
that much more interesting.
To reach Kayakoy you will take the dingy to the dock, then take the path that
rises to the right and follow the red arrows to the top of the village. Look up
and you will see your destination, a small white church at the top of the hill.
Once in Kayakoy you can have a lunch at Muzzy's Place, swim in his pool and have
a freezing cold Efes. Don't drink too many Efes, remember you have to walk back
down the ridge. Explore the town - don't miss the Mayor's House which has been
converted into a lovely restaurant. If you stay at Gemiler, they will pick you
up and return you back to the boat. Just ask Hasan to call Hakan for a
reservation.